"There is a butt for every seat...
…the only trick is matching each butt to the correct seat"
by Scott R. Sharer – ChopperDetailing.com

Hello, everyone…It has been quite a while since I took the time and effort to write a newsletter. To those who know me this is possibly no surprise - - 11 surgeries with 7 additional “procedures” in only 18 months, three of them “emergency surgeries”, helps to explain. To those who do not know me, however, and even to those who do, I offer my apology for not being more focused and productive. Enough said…Let’s get to it…

Recently I received an email from a friend in which he discussed his thoughts on various motorcycles and riding, in the end asking me “…so tell me, Scott, what bike do I want to buy?”

Steve is a new rider and has never owned or ridden motorcycles. His wife Lisa has been hesitant and only recently told Steve, “…so if you want you can buy a Hog.”

My first reactions were that this was a pretty basic topic and that there are certain elements of this that would relate to my real expertise as a Detailer. In truth, the seeming simplicity of Steve’s question masked the depth and breadth of complex issues, questions and considerations involved in purchasing, riding and caring-for a motorcycle. Like many owners and riders, I have gotten sloppy and have come to internalize the bulk of the issues related to purchasing a new motorcycle, generally operating on some sort of high-speed “auto-pilot” when looking at a new bike, often not really paying conscious attention to each element that should be considered before making a purchase. As I began to answer his email I found myself wandering through the issues, failing to provide a simple coherent set of guidelines, questions and answers to help him in his search. After scolding myself appropriately (which is tough right now with my jaw wired shut since the last surgery), I went back and made a real effort to guide him carefully, reminding myself that I, too, would do well to follow a few of these same guidelines more conscientiously the next time I am looking for a new bike. Setting aside any discussion of price (I have no idea of his own personal wealth or financial situation) the following is the essential foundation of my answer to his question.

Dear Steve: Good to hear from you, that you are doing well and working hard. I hope that the following will aid you in your search for not only “a motorcycle”, but “THE ideal motorcycle” that fits you.

I want to first delve into a wide set of considerations you need to make before ever even going out there to look at motorcycles, followed by a strong set of guidelines once you then begin to actually go and look at and, hopefully, make a purchase of “the right motorcycle” for you.

When considering the purchase of any new or pre-owned motorcycle of any make, model, size or configuration, here are a couple of basic really strong considerations I want you to make before you go anywhere to look and while you are looking:

1. If you think you will be riding alone that is one thing, but if you are going to ride with Lisa or anyone else, that is an entirely different set of considerations. Aside from having to handle the weight of two people instead of one, the seat and back-configuration, and the suspension, will either make it comfortable or miserable for the rider and the passenger. If you have a passenger on the back (in most States this is something you can only do once you have your Motorcycle License, not while you are riding on a Learner’s Permit) you will probably want a back-rest for them so they don't feel like they are sliding off when you accelerate, and if you have a passenger you may want a comfortable padded fully-continuous seat. This type of seat is often more comfortable for you and the passenger, and the continuous style of many seats allows the passenger to hug up close behind you, making it easier for them to lean and sway along with you as you maneuver the motorcycle. Finally - if you have a passenger you will probably want to buy a soft-tail motorcycle, not a hard-tail. Actually – This is a matter of preference and taste. I really like the “look” of the hard-tails, but I can tell you that the older I get the more I appreciate a good rear-suspension with really good shock-absorbers and, hence, the more I like a soft-tail bike. Hard-tails are...hard...and that means every bump and jump gets transferred directly into your butt and your spine. Some bikes that look like hard-tails are really soft-tails and the rear suspension system is merely hidden from direct view, usually underneath the frame or tucked-up inside the cosmetic skin of the bike. The best way to tell the difference between a hard-tail and a soft-tail at a quick-glance is often through applying a general rule-of-thumb that says that the difference is frequently revealed by judging or measuring the distance from the top of the back tire to the underside of the rear fender. If this distance is 1" or less, the bike is probably hard-tail. If this distance is 2-or-3" or more, then the bike is probably a soft-tail. This is only a general rule-of-thumb, however, and always be prepared to ask if you are unsure about this or any aspect of the motorcycle you are considering. (As an aside let me say that in this matter or any other I will discuss in answer to your question there are no stupid questions, only stupid riders. And if the seller ridicules you or gives you smart-remarks and insulting tones, go look somewhere else where they appreciate your business and your interest in safety and comfort.)

2. If you will need to carry papers, a laptop, jackets or other items, that is also a consideration, and you would probably want a set of good saddle bags, preferably hard-sided if carrying any fragile items like a laptop. If not carrying anything, then saddle-bags often are not really necessary, and the added weight from them, along with the more difficult mount / dismount that results from having to lift your leg and foot over and past the bags, often makes them more trouble than they are worth. Think about this carefully. You may be considering this motorcycle purchase with only your short commute to the office in mind. The reality is that you may quickly come to use the motorcycle for transportation in various sets of circumstances and in various changing conditions. For instance, either business or pleasure-only riding can be made more convenient and comfortable when you can take along some basic provisions or supplies. Simply having a place to store clothing for riding in the rain or in dramatically changing temperatures can be made much more convenient when you have a good set of saddle-bags.

3. Power – This is a complex topic, and while reading this section I want you to remember that I am not a trained mechanic. Heck – I’m not even an untrained mechanic. In fact - I’m not a mechanic at all. When it comes to Bikes – I ride them and I clean them (beautifully, I might add), but I don’t work on them or fix them. (The “Wrenches” out there in my broader readership just thought to themselves, “Pussy”.) That being said, let’s talk about “Power” in general terms that apply to this stage of the initial experience with evaluating and selecting an ideal motorcycle. “Power” evaluation, in the broadest sense, is the consideration of a complex set of many factors both mechanical and situational, including [but not limited-to] the type of engine and the total engine displacement, the type and structure of the engine air-intake and the exhaust systems, the transfer of that power to the pavement through a transmission and a set of tires, the total weight (the bike plus rider(s) plus any other items such as a laptop, papers, etc.), and the evaluation of these and other aspects of the motorcycle within the context of the type of traffic and riding environment you might normally expect to encounter. More weight (a heavier bike) begs for more horsepower (HP being a function of many things, as mentioned above, often beginning with the “size” of the engine in cubic inches or cubic centimeters [cc’s], with a non-technical and general rule-of-thumb that says the bigger the engine in cc’s, the greater the potential horsepower). In addition, along with consideration of total weight, it is essential to consider any need for higher speeds, and any need to accelerate to higher speed rapidly (going from an on-ramp at 35mph into traffic that is moving on the roadway at 60mph) along with considerations for any steep road gradients that must be traversed. The answer to each of these also often means you want more horsepower and lower-end torque (the low-end torque being the thing that “Hogs” / Harleys and most V-Twin bikes generally have over many Metric “crotch-rocket” bikes). Aside from the weight of the bike, I have found in the past and I have learned over time another “general rule-of-thumb” indicating that for most men of our size (you and I are about the same size, Steve), it is best to purchase a bike that is around 750-1000cc or higher. As a set of references: My new Can Am Spyder is 990cc, and it generates about 106 Horse-power and about 77-foot-pounds of torque (just enough to properly handle my weight without bogging down), my Victory Hammer is 1650cc and is modified so that it now has much more horse-power and lower-and-upper-end torque than when it was “stock” from the factory. The Hammer is now capable of going from 0-100mph in less than 4-seconds (we clocked it three different times from a standing-start after the last “tune-up”). This amount of power is generally useful only if you are good at hanging on really tight. The Chopper that I just traded was 1930cc (extremely powerful, probably to the point where many people would be unable to ride the bike and keep it under control). Sandra [my wife] rides a Vulcan Mean-Streak SE, which is a 1600cc bike, and she is much smaller than you or me. She has “power” to spare and then-some for any riding condition. For someone of our size, between 225 and 250 pounds - Getting into anything that is smaller than 750-1000cc means that frequently the bike will feel a little bit "sluggish", especially when leaving a standing start at a light, when trying to quickly pass other traffic or when going up a long hill that is relatively steep. If you and Lisa are planning on riding together (something I think you both would enjoy and that I would encourage), then you should probably look at 1000-1200cc or greater (and you may find very good deals right now on motorcycles that are possibly up-to as much as 1500-1600cc in engine size).

Most Important: It is my personal opinion that you must not let anyone tell you to get a 250-350cc small "starter-bike" in order for you to learn to ride (and many people would disagree with me here) .... It has been my own personal experience, and my experience with many friends, that you will actually have a much more comfortable and easier time learning to ride when the bike is not under-powered or under-sized. For instance: Sandra started on an 880cc as her first bike (many people tried to get her to buy 500cc or less but I told her "no" and why they were wrong), and all on her own she decided to trade up to a 1600cc bike within 12 months, becoming a much better rider almost immediately due to the simple facts that the bike better-"fit" both her and her / our riding conditions. This size also helped her to keep-up when riding in a group with me and other people who ride the bigger bikes.

4. Transmission – There is no hard-and-fast rule that I am applying here, only my opinion. If you are going to be riding at 55mph or greater for any distance, you may want a 6-speed bike to reduce the gas consumption and make the motorcycle “work” a little less hard. If going only 40-45mph or if going 55-70mph for only reasonably short distances (less than 15-20 miles), then a 5-speed might be just fine. As an example: If I am riding my Hammer and traveling, for instance, 120 miles at 70+mph using only 5-speeds instead of the full 6-speeds that are available, then the gas mileage would probably be in the ratio of <30 miles-per-gallon in 5-speeds as opposed to >40 miles-per-gallon in fully 6-speeds. I personally prefer a 6-speed in all cases (it is what I have grown accustomed-to over time) although my new Spyder is only a 5-speed (they sacrificed one “forward-gear” in order to provide a "reverse-gear" to make it easier to back-up the bike). But - the Spyder is for one condition of riding locally here on the island or in-town when I am relaxing and taking things slow or when going to a local Detailing job with some cleaning supplies and towels, and the Hammer is for longer-distance higher-speed riding. This means that only having a 5-speed on the Spyder was and is not a real problem for me.

Now – Let’s say you have absorbed my suggestions above, you have thought things through, looked at some magazines, browsed the WWW, and maybe even talked with friends or associates who already own motorcycles, and you are now ready to go and actually look-at and sit-on a few bikes.

In that case - SAFETY - FIRST, LAST, & ALWAYS.

Setting aside that fact that you need to take a good motorcycle safety course (these are often sponsored by the State and passing such a course will generally lower your insurance rates quite a bit), and considering only the vehicle you might eventually purchase and ride, when it comes to Safety you must-have good mirrors, tires, brakes, hand-and-foot controls, a horn and proper lights in order to remain safe while on-the-road riding your motorcycle. The rest is not “must-have” but “prefer-to-have” in the categories of overall performance, the “sound-quality” or volume-of-sound from the bike (many riders, including myself, prefer “louder” as a method of making other drivers aware of their presence on the road, hence the slogan, “Loud pipes save lives”), paint or design cosmetics and functional options (like radio / MP3 players, highway-pegs, cruise-control, etc.). When considering the above-list of “must-have” elements you will do well to observe the following guidelines.

Look at the tires. Make sure they are not unevenly worn or are not completely worn-out (if you can place a penny on-edge in various places around the tire in the grooves of the rubber and not see or still just barely see the top of Lincoln's hair, then there is still enough tread on the tire). 

Look at the wheel rims. See if they are scraped, dented, gouged or damaged (this would indicate that the tire might lose its seal with the rim and the tire will go flat - a "bad-thing" at 60mph). If this is a “used” or “demo-bike”, check the rims to see if there is an over-abundance of brake-dust accumulation (this could indicate extremely worn brakes / brake-pads). When you rub any dust from the wheel on your finger, the black dust from the brakes will have a little "sparkle" or "glitter" in it, as opposed to dusty non-sparkling black grime that is from the exhaust or of other origin. 

Look at the brake pads and the brake rotor for each wheel (the rotor is the round metal disk that runs through the center of the brake housing). If the brake rotor is not smooth on the outside 2" of the flat surface on both faces, but has instead grooves or ridges that are visibly and tactilely worn as deep concentric circles in the disk (meaning you can see the grooves and actually feel them with our hand / fingers), then the bike probably has no brake pads left, is running “metal-on-metal” and therefore it functionally has NO brakes, and it is dangerous to ride. As part of this inspection, squeeze the right hand-lever (this controls the front brake) and press the right-foot lever (this controls the back brake). Make certain that they feel smooth and that they solidly end their motion before going too far, possibly making contacting with another part of the bike (like the hand-grip). If these levers feel loose or if they squeeze to an initial partial stopping point and then slowly continue to move to an extreme point, this can mean that there is not a proper level of brake fluid or that you have a fluid leak. Just like the inspection of the amount of brake dust and the brake pads & rotors, sloppy feeling brake levers are often a sign of a dangerous situation.

Check the fork-seals for any fluid leaks and look-at and run your hands all around the underside of the bike, including and especially the underside of the engine and frame. Make sure it is not leaking ANY fluids. If so, don't buy that bike. A little fluid leak while the bike is only sitting will often turn into a massive fluid leak once the engine is running and the internal fluid pressure on the cylinders, seals, gaskets and block has increased.

If the bike is “pre-owned” or is a “demo bike”, look for scrapes or long scratches on the end of the grips, the outside end of the turn-signal lights, the side panels and the outer portion of the forks, the primary cover (the big cover on the lower left side as you face the bike that often has a chain, belt or drive-shaft possibly coming out of it), exhaust pipes or shocks. Presence of these scrapes would most-often indicate a bike that has been "down" on its side.

Finally - Check the condition of the paint and chrome on all areas of the bike - If either is flaking, bubbled or shows any rust, this will get worse, not better, and can get much worse quickly. This may not mean you should not consider buying the bike, but you have to accept that you will be making some investment in paint or new parts if you want the bike to stay looking good.

My impression is that you are not interested in becoming a “motorcycle mechanic”, and that you are buying this motorcycle to ride, intending for someone else to provide regular or as-needed service and support. If that is the case, you may be best served through buying from an established motorcycle dealer or from an individual who is able and prepared-to stand by the bike in the long-term. Many times individual sellers are offering the bike “as-is” and they do not intend and are not equipped to provide you qualified and certified on-going service and repair. In addition, as a brand-new rider who may be purchasing either a new or pre-owned motorcycle, and who is not interested in self-service, I would probably encourage having a written and signed warranty service and support document as part of the overall deal you make for the motorcycle. Once again, this may mean you are better off buying through an authorized dealer who is qualified and equipped to handle your warranty and long-term service needs. This is not meant to limit you to only buying through a dealer. You may find an individual who has a pre-owned motorcycle that turns out to be “the perfect bike” in terms of type, quality, look, fit and price. In the event that you purchase from an individual who cannot or does not provide service-after-the-sale, I would strongly recommend that you talk with that seller and with other riders in your area in order to enlist their aid in finding a solid, highly qualified and affordable source for regular service. Visit some of the local shops and have a chat about becoming a customer for their service and support department. Find a place where you feel comfortable and confident that the service technicians are qualified and have been trained in the complete service & support procedures for the make and model you are purchasing.

If you find a “used-bike” with up-to 10,000 miles or more that you like, one that meets the above conditions, and that you want to buy, pay to have a full inspection, service and complete tune-up, that includes changing the fluids (oil, transmission, brakes and forks), the air and oil-filters, and replacing the spark-plugs. Insist on this as part of the "deal" you strike with any dealer. If you are purchasing from an individual owner, then take the motorcycle immediately to a qualified service location and have this work done before putting too many miles on the bike. Even if the bike is not “due” for any replacement parts or fluid changes, and even if this means that you spend a couple of hundred dollars right-off the bat, this level of qualified inspection, service and tune-up will isolate and fix any hidden problems that went un-noticed during the purchase-interval while also giving you peace-of-mind as you begin to take the motorcycle out for a ride, providing you real confidence that the bike can comfortably and reliably “get-you-there” and “get-you-back” safely.

FINALLY: Once you have eliminated choices based on the specific and general guidelines I have given above, and once you have scrupulously observed the Safety elements I just presented, the ONLY thing that matters is how the bike looks and [most importantly] "feels" TO YOU when you sit on it. You must feel comfortable with the depth and width of the seat. You must also feel comfortable that the bike is well balanced as you lift it up from the kick-stand and center the bike under you, and you need to feel that the hand controls, gauges and foot controls are in a comfortable position while riding. I always have a friend or sales-person straddle the front wheel between their legs while holding the handlebar tightly enough for me to sit on the bike and carefully lift each foot off the ground and put my feet onto the foot-pegs / controls while I am also holding the grips / hand-controls. That way I get a feeling for the "reach" and my personal comfort level on the bike. You will quickly find out which bikes feel "right" and which feel "wrong". Don't buy anything that feels even a little "wrong". Keep looking for the right bike. You will know instantly when the bike "fits".

Well – I hope that this helps you, Steve, and that it helps all of my readers, any time there is a little-voice inside your head telling you “…hey, man - we’ve been pretty good for a while now, and we sure have been working hard… I say that we should just take a look… maybe we should get a new motorcycle… come-on… it doesn’t hurt to just look, now does it?... Besides – I bet we can find the perfect seat for that butt you are carrying around…”.

I always listen to my “little-voices”. How about you? See you soon, at the dealership, at a show, or maybe out on the road. And I’ll try to keep the interval between ChopperDetailing.com Newsletters to a minimum.

BEFORE I CLOSE THIS SCOTT SHARER NEWSLETTER:
I am very excited to welcome a new Detailing company into “the business”.

I have spoken with “JT” / Jim Taylor a number of times. He is a great guy, thoughtful and hard-working, and he has the business-ethic and demanding eye for quality in his own business that we work to maintain at ChopperDetailing.com. For those of you in the mid-west and especially those in the Emporia, Kansas, area: Read this flyer, print it and hand it around:

 

JT’s
CUSTOM CHOPPER
&
MOTORCYCLE  DETAILING

Emporia, Kansas
Call: 620-412-4638 or
E-mail - jtchopperdetailing @ yahoo.com

Providing Superior Detailing Service with the
Highest Quality Cleaning & Protection.

We are committed to provide you with:
Proper Cleaning, Waxing, Polishing and Sealing.
When your bike is finished, it will have a Showroom-Finish

Complete Hand Detailing $150.00
Average labor time, 8 hours

Extra labor for detailing $ 18.75-per-hr with owners prior approval.

For your convenience we offer a 24/7 service.

We offer special pricing for ALL Motorcycle Clubs & Riding Events
in the State of Kansas & surrounding States.

We offer promotional packages to all Custom Chopper Builders
and all Motorcycle shops in the State of Kansas.
We support Community Clubs, Charities & Fund Raising.
We offer special promotional packages to all local Businesses.

All active Military ½ price – All Vets $20.00 off

We also are pleased to offer the best motorcycle photographer in town.
Photographer will be on-site by appointment only (photos by Debbie)
  
Call for your appointment at: 620-412-4638 or
E-mail - jtchopperdetailing @ yahoo.com

To better understand us and our technique you can go to:
www.ChopperDetailing.com

 

Thanks, all of you ChopperDetailing.com Newsletter readers - - Let’s support Jim and his new business venture. Scott R. Sharer

 

Every Detailer at Chopper Detailing.com is personally experienced with:
American Ironhorse, Bourget Bike Works, Martin Brothers, Big-Dog, Titan, Harley-Davidson, Victory Motorcycles, Jailhouse Choppers, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, Can Am…and many, many others.

We're eager to Clean, Polish, and Protect your valuable “pride-and-joy”, and we look forward to seeing you and your "ride" real soon!

HEY: Pass this article on to others who could benefit from the special tips and techniques that we have described, and visit us often for more information on caring for your motorcycle, or Call & Stop-by for Services or Advice ….